Custom Color Mixes – Part 2

August 18th, 2017

In Part 1 you learned all about color theory and skintone. In Part 2 we will be discussing mixing your own custom colors for your clients! Working with the NSI Acrylic and Gel lines makes mixing your custom colors easy! There are full ranges of color in both the Gel and Acrylics lines that can be used to make that one of a kind color. In acrylic, colored powders from either the Technailcolor or Secrets Shades line can be mixed with your Attraction Powders. If using gel, you can mix NSI Secrets Removable Gels together with the Balance LED/UV Gels.

Customizing

Customizing colors is an art in itself, it may take you several tries to get your mix just right, if you are completely new to customizing try matching your own skin tone first!

When mixing your color for over the stress area or over the extended area, make sure that your mix contains one of the opaque masques or whites. Often times if you just mix colors and use some of the ones that are more transparent then this area will not be opaque. You will loose your long, sleek illusion. Some colors to avoid using over the nail bed as your transition colors are the yellows and greens. You don’t want to create the illusion of a bacterial infection (greenies).

After you have determined if your client has warm undertones or cool undertones, you will need to select the perfect base for your mix.

POWDERS: NSI has several excellent opaque colors in the Attraction Acrylic Line to use as your base.

Cool – Attraction Rose Blush is a cool pink used to hide imperfections or to create the illusion of longer looking nail beds

Warm – Attraction Purely Pink Masque, a warm pink, with slightly less opacity.

 

GELS: Balance LED/UV gels have 2 colors ideal for mixing

Cool – Balance LED/ UV Builder Blush is a soft pink with just a hint of opacity

Warm – Balance LED/ UV Body Builder Cover Pink Warm is a warm opaque pink.

MIXING

When mixing your custom colors, start working with a clean, empty container, at least a 7 gram size container or larger. You will need about 30% empty space in the top of your container so you can roll and mix the colors together. Remember to mix enough product to have on hand when your client returns for her rebalancing appointments. NOTE: When mixing gels, use a white or opaque jar so that your mixture does not cure before your clients next rebalance.

ORGANIZING YOUR MIXES: Always keep a “recipe” of what you used in your custom mix on hand or in your client consultation card, so that you know how to make more. Put the client’s name on the container, and store them alphabetically. A great way to organize your acrylic mixes is the Secrets Nail Art Palette, it can hold up to fifteen empty jars and you can purchase it with the jars already included.

WARMER

Earlier, we covered that making a color warmer you need to add a small amount of yellow or red to a color. That is exactly what you are going to do with your mixture.

POWDERS:
To make a warmer color using Secrets Shades Colored Acrylic, just add a tiny amount (like two pinheads) of “In The Hot Seat”, or an even less amount of “Bite Your Tongue”.

GELS:
To make a warmer color using Secrets Removable Color Gel, just add a tiny amount (like two pinheads) of “Hot Topic”, or an even less amount of “Bite Your Tongue”. Adding “Don’t Make Me Blush” or “Romantic Rose” are also a good choice if you would like to add a little opacity and warmth.

Cooler
To make a color cooler, just like we covered earlier, you can add a small amount of a true blue and create a whole new custom cool color.

POWDER:
To make a cooler color, just add one to two pinhead-sized amounts of Secrets Shades Colored Acrylic – “Whisper Sweet Nothings” or “Day Dream” (Be careful this one has glitter).

GEL:
To make a cooler color, just add one to two pinhead-sized amounts of Secrets Removable Color Gel – “Open Minded” or “Wild Flowers”. If you need to make your mix slightly pinker, “Don’t Kiss and Tell” is a nice opaque cool pink pigment.

Tinting or Shading

One important element of custom blending is getting the right tint or shade. It is always best to add very tiny amounts of the darker pigment to the lighter one. You can continue to add tiny amounts until you have reached the desired color.

ACRYLIC: You can adjust your base mix if it is too light simply by adding a half pinhead-sized amount of Secrets Shades Colored Acrylic Powder – “Mother Earth”. This will darken it slightly. Be careful, this color will also make your mixture slightly warm.

If you need to lighten a mix, just add Attraction Radiant White Powder and a bit more of your chosen base color.

GEL: You can adjust your base mix if it is too light simply by adding a half pinhead-sized amount of Secrets Removable Gel – “Big Apple”. This will darken it slightly. Be careful, this color will also make your mixture slightly warm.

If you need to lighten a mix, just add Secrets Removable Color Gel “Little White Lies”, and a bit more of your chosen base color.

Testing Your Mix

It is important to test your mix along the way so you know how much more of a color to customize. Cap your jar and roll the jar between your hands to mix the powder. Using a nail form, press out a small bead and let it set before comparing it to your client. Adjust as needed.

Once you think your mix is complete, test your mix BEFORE applying it to your client. Press out several beads onto an Clear nail tip and hold it over the client’s finger. If it isn’t quite what you want, adjust it by adding small amounts of the desired powder.

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How To Apply Edge Nail Tips

August 19th, 2016

How to apply edge forms

Nail art has taken the world by storm. We are constantly seeing new trends in color, nail shapes and products that bring life and shape the nail industry. At NSI we are constantly developing and releasing new products specifically designed for nail art, whether it’s for nail art competitions, or a nail tech adding in a nail art service.

One of our favorite nail art trends, are the alternative nail shapes like the stiletto, edge, lipstick, or coffin! While these shapes can be sculpted on our Secrets Stiletto Nail Forms, an easy way to get an edge shaped nail is by using our Secrets Edge Tips. They are a simple way to get an alternative nail shape and can easily be used in a salon service!

YOU WILL NEED:
Polybond Brush-On Adhesive
Secrets Edge Nail Tips

Cuticle Pusher

STEP 1:
Thoroughly prepare the natural nail and remove the true cuticle. Gently remove the shine using an Endurance 180/180 Grit File or higher. Saturate a Nail Wipe with Nailpure Plus, and wipe it across the natural nail to dehydrate, cleanse, and protect.

Apply Nail Tip

STEP 2:
Choose the correct size tip by measuring from sidewall to sidewall. It is always better to size up and slightly pre-tailor for a proper fit. Place a small line of Polybond Adhesive to the free edge of the natural nail, spreading from side to side. Place a small amount of adhesive on the inside of the contact area of the tip. This will assure an excellent bond.

STEP 3:
Holding the tip at a 45 degree angle, apply the tip where you would like the smile line to be or about 1 cm from the free edge of the natural nail. Rock the tip into place and apply even, downward pressure to force out all air bubbles and hold for 10 seconds.

File Nail Forms

STEP 4:
Using a Endurance 180/180 Grit File or higher, gently roughen the tip and natural nail. Using a NSI Plush Brush, brush away any nail dust. Saturate a Nail Wipe with Cleanse, and wipe it across the natural nail and tip to remove any remaining nail dust. This will help promote product adhesion.

Once you are finished the enhancement service, use Glaze ‘n Go LED for a super shiny finish that will protect the nail enhancement and your art!

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MERMAID STAINED GLASS NAIL ART Demo

August 12th, 2016

Mermaiddemo

This fun summer Mermaid nail art can be used over a variety of nail services! If your client would like nail enhancements, finish the enhancement with NSI Polish Pro Shimmering Sand. You can also complete a gel polish Mani using NSI Polish Pro Shimmering Sand as well.

YOU WILL NEED:
Secrets HD Detailer Brush
Polish Pro Shimmering Sand
Polish Pro Mermaid Kisses
Polish Pro Blue Lagoon
Secrets Removable Gel I’m Really a Mermaid
Secrets Design Gel Little White Lies

STEP 1: Using the NSI Detailer brush, at the center of the nail, make teardrop shape with the Secrets Design Gel Little White Lies. Moving outward from the teardrop create the remaining shell shape in a symmetrical pattern, leaving a little space between each element. Cure for 10 seconds to freeze your design in place.

STEP 2: Add a swooshing X in the center of the nail to create sections you will fill in with your accent colors. Continue to create swirls in a symmetrical pattern to frame in areas and create negative spaces. Cure for 10 seconds to freeze your design in place.

STEP 3: Create some small, scale shapes in the center of your x shape, and connect any open swirls to the larger design elements. Then, outline the nail shape to create a little border around the design. Cure in full hand LED Lamp for 60 seconds or 2 minute in UV.

STEP 4: Fill in the small little spaces you’ve created with your accent colors. The new NSI Mermaid collection Polish Pro and Secrets Removable Color gels are perfect for making this design really pop! Cure in any full hand LED lamp for 30 seconds or UV lamp for 2 minutes.

STEP 5: Using your Detailer brush and Little White Lies Design gel, be sure to go back and strengthen any lines that may have gotten lost, it will give the design more definition and texture. Cure in full hand LED Lamp for 60 seconds or 2 minute in UV.

Be sure to protect your art with topcoat. Use Polish Pro Top coat over your Polish Pro Mani. For Nail enhancements, use Glaze ‘n Go LED to protect your design.

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Troubleshooting Polish Pro

August 5th, 2016

ThreeNewLook-red

Gel Polish is a very popular salon service, so we created a reference guide for our Polish Pro Gel Polish System to help you spot problems on your own and quickly remedy them so you can provide the very best service to your clients.

Peeling/Chipping in less than two weeks

POSSIBLE EXPLANATION:
SOLUTION: (Application issues) Be sure to leave a tiny margin around the cuticle and sidewalls to prevent lifting. When applying color, do a clean swipe and don’t let color build up at the free edge.
SOLUTION: (Prep issues) Eliminate the use of cuticle remover product, performing just a “dry” manicure (no soaking in water prior to application either). When dehydrating the nail plate, don’t just quickly swipe with Nailpure Plus. Use a scrubbing motion with your Nail Wipe and be sure to get into the side walls and anywhere oil and contaminants could be hiding.

Color is bubbling/wrinkling after curing

POSSIBLE EXPLANATION:
SOLUTION: (Application issues) Your first coat of color should be thin and have an almost “streaky” appearance. You’ll get full color coverage with your second thin coat. Also, be sure to shake your bottles of Polish Pro colors well before application (at least 20 seconds).
SOLUTION: (Product storage) Because Polish Pro contains solvents (like traditional nail polish), it is imperative that it remains at room temperature and capped TIGHTLY when not in use. If the solvents evaporate, the polish will not cure smoothly and it can be become thick and gummy, making thin layers difficult to apply.

Top Coat is dull after curing

POSSIBLE EXPLANATION:
SOLUTION: (Curing issues) Be sure you are using a Full hand LED Lamp or 36-Watt full hand UV Bonding Lamp, and that you are curing the nails for a full 30 seconds. An incomplete cure can cause the nails to dull.
SOLUTION: (Application issues) While you are still striving to achieve thin layers with Polish Pro, your Polish Pro Top Coat layer should be slightly thicker than your color coat layer to ensure it fully covers.  Also, be sure you are using Cleanse to remove the tacky layer, as other products may remove the tacky layer, but may dull the shine of Polish Pro Top Coat.

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NSI Weekly Update

January 28th, 2016

Valentine’s Nail Art Demo!

Weekly-Update

Valentine’s Day is approaching quickly! Check out Sonia Stafford’s demo for the above nail art design for some inspiration.

What’s New At NSI

  • Contest announcement coming soon! Stay tuned to hear about our Valentine’s Day Nail Art Contest!
  • Get to Know Your Customer’s Day was January 21st! We love hearing our customer’s stories, please send any stories and images you would like to share with us! Email us at graphicdesign@nsinails.com
  • February 7th is the Chinese New Year – The Year of the Monkey! We are looking for monkey nail art to feature on our social media! If you would like the chance to be featured on our social media, please send your artwork to graphicdesign@nsinails.com

NSI Around the World

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NSI Weekly Update

December 3rd, 2015

Happy Holidays In the Office!

What’s New At NSI

  • We decorated our Office for the Holidays!
  • We are looking for Winter Nail Art Designs for our 2015 Winter Glam Book! Please send any nail art submissions to graphicdesign@nsinails.com.
  • Pantone Released their Color of the Year for 2016 and for the first time ever they released two colors! Check out our Pinterest Board – Two Of a Kind for nail art inspiration using these colors!

NSI Around the World

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NSI France Hosts Open House at Essentiel Cosmetique

April 10th, 2015

PND NSI France partnered with their sub-distributor Essential Cosmetique for an Open House in Albi France on March 30th. Daniel Zacharias of Essential Cosmetique invited all his customers to come discover NSI’s new Secrets line along with all other NSI Products.

Sylvie and Bibi of PND NSI France set up two demonstration tables, one for techniques in acrylic and gel and the other for nail art. All customers were welcome to touch and test the NSI products themselves. Jean-Lux (PND) was also present to answer any questions and assist in sales along with the team at Essential Cosmetique.

It was a very successful event and we are so pleased that many more people were able to see the magic of NSI products!

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NSI Free Online Webinar

November 4th, 2014

NSI Free Online Webinar
“Secrets to Creating a Perfect Nail”

Hosted by Anastasia Luksha, NSI Master Expert and Global Educator

Saturday December 6, 2014 at 12:00 pm PDT

Join Anastasia Luksha as she demonstrates her secrets to creating a perfect nail. She will show how to fit a nail form properly on different types of nail plates and common mistakes that nail technicians make while fitting the form and sculpting. She will also share some of her best secrets to create a perfect smile line. Finally, Anastasia will show you some fun and easy salon designs using our new Secrets nail art range. This is the perfect opportunity for you to see a live demonstration of our new NSI products by one of our leading Global Educators.

Sign up today at nsiacademy.com!!

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Bright & Bold Summertime Colors

June 20th, 2014

Grab your bikini, sunglasses and the new Polish Pro shades perfect for your Summer holiday. Lay Poolside with your Pink Bikini. Where’s the Party, after all it is Girls Night Out. Take a Road Trip and enjoy Endless Nights. No matter your favorite summer activity NSI has the gel polish to make your nails pop!
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Nail Art – Sharper than Ever : By Jamie Burnetski

June 28th, 2012

About a month ago NSI was a proud exhibitor at the Premier Orlando Beauty Show.   Although Premier Orlando covers all aspects of the beauty industry, our main focus was what was buzzing in the nail biz. Read the rest of this entry »

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